Barcelona: Oh My Gaudi!

Tell Me Why…

Intricate Architecture, Unique Parks, Cliffside Monasteries

Originally published on The Boundless Wayfayer

Why Barcelona? What other city in the world can you be blown away by the intricacy and uniqueness of so many of Antoni Gaudí’s works? Not to mention the other gorgeous works of architectural art around the city. Having always been drawn to interesting architecture and in particular to Gaudí’s unique, organic, modernist designs, Barcelona was always on the short list of places to visit. The city was stunningly beautiful and it was so different from anything else I’ve seen in Europe. It was a photographer’s paradise with something unexpected at every turn. And who can resist the endless tapas, paella, and sangria.

Just the Facts, Ma’am

Take Me Along with You

Over Thanksgiving in 2017 I had the privilege of turkey trotting my way down to the extremely beautiful city of Barcelona (Spain? Catalonia? Who knows). In the weeks leading up to the trip, Catalonia spent a lot of time in the news as it declared independence from Spain. We decided to go through with our trip and quickly learned it was mostly media fanfare and there was no obvious unrest in the city.

Although 3 days in Barcelona was hardly enough to even scratch the surface, we made the most out of our short time there. Most of it was spent in the heart of the city but we did travel out to Montserrat to see an cliffside monastery and some spectacular cliffside views.

Day 1

La Sagrada Família

Probably one of the most well-known places in Barcelona, the towering basilica is every bit as magical as you’d expect. The extreme detail of Gaudí’s designs are incredible. To get the most out of the experience, we got the SAGRADA FAMÍLIA WITH TOWERS self-guided audio tour.

Every inch of La Sagrada Família has some nature-inspired meaning behind it and the completed sections are amazing. The forest-inspired pillars and rainbow stained glass inside the basilica were stunning. We took an elevator to the top of one tower and walked down before exploring the Temple. The trip up to the towers on the intricate Nativity facade was worth it for up close looks at the mosaic designs of the towers and panoramic views of the city. In contrast to the detailed Nativity facade, the Passion facade was very stark but also so beautiful.

What’s most remarkable about La Sagrada Família is that it’s still under construction and still changing everyday. This masterpiece is growing, with hope of being completed in 2026, but the amount of work left to be done is crazy! They only have 8 out of 18 towers completed, so best of luck to the cause.

Definitely clear a whole morning if you want to fully take in this masterpiece.

Sant Pau

The old hospital of Sant Pau was probably the biggest hidden gem in Barcelona. It’s not found on many travel guides of recommended places, but it should be, so shout outs to the metro stop poster that let us know about this treasure! Barcelona is a city filled with unexpected and colorful architecture, and this Catalan Art Nouveau (Modernisme) complex is definitely no exception.

While not a Gaudí creation, Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau was a gorgeous complex that was a functioning hospital until 2009. They wanted to allow patients to walk between the buildings and pavilions designed by Domènech i Montaner, and all the buildings were connected by an underground tunnel network. This is definitely a great place to stop for a quick walk around!

Park Güell

Opposite the Mediterranean and built into the hills of Barcelona, is the beautiful Park Güell and more of Gaudí’s Catalan modernism. This large public park was originally designed as a residential complex for the rich by Gaudí.

While much this large park is now free to explore, Gaudi’s more notable landmarks are in a restricted area that requires a 10€ entrance ticket (an attempt to reduce overcrowding). Paying the entry fee is definitely worth it to see the spiraling columns of Pòrtic de la Bugadera, the world’s longest undulating bench, and the gorgeous Dragon staircase. I recommend buying your ticket online so you can pick a start time that works for you and once you enter you are free to explore for as long as you want. We chose a late entry time and a basic admission ticket to wander as the sun set.

The whole Monumental Zone is so cool from the terrace bird nests, the colonnaded stone walkways, and the mosaics adorning the serpentine bench, entrance stairway, and gingerbread (?) houses. Definitely a gorgeous place to explore!

Day 2

Montserrat

Our second day found us on an hour train ride from Barcelona Pl. Espanya up into the mountains of Catalonia to the Montserrat monastery that’s perched high in the cliffs. After disembarking at Montserrat AERI, we took a tiny little cable car up through the valley. The five minute ride offered gorgeous views as you floated above the valley. There is also the option to take the train to Montserrat Monastery (one stop further) to take the funicular up the mountain. You have the option to buy these tickets separately or as a bundle.

Once at the monastery, we explored the mountainside complex and basilica. The views up at the monastery are breathtaking and it’s well worth walking around. We opted for just an audio-tour of the monastery, but there are many places to explore in Montserrat including their museum and funiculars to other parts of the mountain. You can learn more here.

The rock formations surrounding the monastery were really cool and the inside of the basilica with the Virgin of Montserrat was beautiful. This was a perfect little day trip and change of pace from the city! No turkey to be found for our Catalan Thanksgiving, but tapas, paella, and churros did the trick.

Day 3

We did a full-day loop through Barcelona on our last day. Starting at the Gothic Quarter, we headed to Casa Batlló as our first, and only planned stop for the day.

Casa Batlló

Inspired by the ocean and resembling bones and a dragon, the colorful Casa Batlló apartment building was our last official tourist stop in Barcelona. Seeing a third place by Gaudí really cemented my awe of his work. The creativity and thought behind every detail was just as evident in this house as his huge basilica and his outdoor park. Every single thing is intentional and functional.

Your ticket will include an augmented reality Smart-Guide and audio tour. With design details largely inspired by the ocean, expect to spend about an hour exploring the unique apartment building and its iconic roof. This is definitely the best way to finish off a trio of Gaudí’s greatest hits.

Both the interior and exterior were stunning and presented such innovative solutions to increasing natural daylight and air flow throughout the building. The amount of time that went into every piece of colored glass, curved wood, and cultural detail is crazy. I’ve really never seen anything quite like Gaudí’s work. Also, I’ve always been an architecture appreciator (as obvious through my choice of photos) but this whole trip really expanded my vocab and knowledge, thanks audio guides!

Wandering the Streets

So with every urban adventure, I think it’s extremely important to just wander around in addition to hitting all the touristy sights. You can really get to know the people and vibes of the city when you’re away from the hustle and bustle of visitors. We strolled through the old Gothic Quarter, the fun Plaça de Catalunya, and the fancier Passeig de Gràcia with Casa Milà, one of the busiest avenues in Barcelona with high-end shopping and many vibrant lunch spots.

We naively stumbled upon the famous Arc de Triomf and Parc de la Ciutadella and were delighted to find lots of little treasures. From green parrots, people floating in rowboats on the idyllic lake, and a gorgeous fountain, it was quite the treat to spend the afternoon listening to local musicians in this green oasis. We also discovered the Castle of the Three Dragons and the abandoned World Exposition greenhouses.

We walked along the vibrant seaside neighborhood through La Barceloneta, La Rambla and La Boqueria with wide promenades as the sun was setting, making our way to the Mirador de Colom. From there we turned right and walked up the famous tree-lined pedestrian street towards La Boqueria for dinner inside the bustling market. Barcelona is HUGE and there are so many amazing places to explore. This was one of my favorite afternoons of the trip!

Maybe Next Time…

Although we did a lot in a few days, there were some places I wish I had time to see:

• Montjuïc: From the Palau Nacional to the Magic Fountain, Montjuïc looks stunning and is definitely on our list for our next trip to Barcelona. Visiting Montjuïc was originally planned for the evening following our day-trip to Montserrat, but we decided it would be too much to squeeze into the day. If we had an extra day and more refreshed feet, we would definitely have made the trip. Also, the Barcelona Pavilion (aka the German Pavilion) designed by Mies van der Rohe and Reich is a short walk from the Montjuïc Fountain. It is well-known in the world of modern architecture for its use of extravagant materials and minimalism to blur the space between inside and out.
• Casa Mila (La Pedrera): After deciding to go to the Sagrada Familia and Park Guell, we knew we had to hit at least one of Gaudí’s famed apartment buildings. While we opted for Casa Batlló, we did walk by the nearby Casa Mila. If we had more time/money to spare, we definitely would have toured Casa Mila to see the iconic Warrior Rooftop or interior courtyards featuring floral and butterfly motifs that contrast the building’s facade.
• Picasso Museum: We were extremely lucky to have beautiful, sunny weather for our trip to Barcelona. If there had been a rainy day or extra time, we would have considered a trip indoors to see some of Picasso’s best works.
• More Gaudí, Gaudí, Gaudí: Antoni Gaudí clearly made his mark on Barcelona. From Casa Vicens to Palau Güell to Colonia Güell, there is a long list of amazing projects that are open to visitors.

Wish I Had Known…

• Unlike some cities in Europe that only require a day or so to explore the main spots, Barcelona definitely requires at least 3-4 full days.

Armchair Exploration

One fun novel that was great to read before going to Barcelona was Dan Brown’s Origin. Many scenes take place in and around Barcelona including the magnificent Montserrat mountain and Abbey, La Sagrada Familia church and the Casa Mila. Robert Langdon also rides in the Montjuic cable car on Montjuic hill and stays in the Sofia hotel on Barcelona’s Diagonal Avenue.

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